Warren Fashion

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At the Paris Men’s Shows, Light and Luster

Posted by admin On January - 20 - 2012

Rick Owens men's fall 2012 collection in Paris.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York TimesRick Owens men’s fall 2012 collection in Paris.Rick Owens fall 2012.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York TimesRick Owens fall 2012.

I was so busy focusing on the shapes at Rick Owens that I didn’t notice until I looked at the pictures how many glossy surfaces he had, including the models’ wetted-down heads. Many of the jackets and coats were in glossy synthetics.

Kim Jones also added shine at Louis Vuitton — suits and blazers that used a reflective yarn, silver-tipped shoes, parkas with metallic luster, those silver spear pins.

Shoes from the Louis Vuitton men's fall 2012 collection in Paris.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York TimesShoes from the Louis Vuitton men’s fall 2012 collection in Paris.

This evening Jean Paul Gaultier hit a brick wall — literally, figuratively, it hardly matters — with shirts and jeans printed in such a pattern. That seems a pretty down-market idea. The rest of this ho-hum parade consisted of Gaultier favorites, like oversize fur-trimmed parkas, skirts and jackets in two-tone combinations.

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